Is Hakone worth it? Why this onsen resort beats other Tokyo getaways

The Mount Fuji swing in Hakone has brilliant views!

You've probably landed on this page because you're trying to decide whether or not to include Hakone in your Japan itinerary. Maybe you've heard that it's crowded, that you can't actually see Mt. Fuji most of the time anyway, and that there are easier day trips from Tokyo. All of that is technically true. But it also misses the point entirely. We've been to Hakone several times and - you'll know this already if you've checked out some of our other Hakone posts - are big fans. Read on to find out why we definitely recommend visiting Hakone... with caveats!

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you click through and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission, ♡ at no extra cost to you ♡ It helps cover the costs of keeping this site alive and we really appreciate your support

*Any prices quoted below are subject to change

Hakone is more than Mt Fuji views

Hakone is one of the best places I've visited near Tokyo to experience what Japanese tourists actually do on a mountain getaway: soak in an onsen, hike in fresh air, eat local food, and disconnect from the city for a night or two. It feels authentic, even though it's no "hidden gem".

Let's address the mountain in the room: Mt. Fuji views in Hakone are unreliable. Cloud cover, weather patterns, and sheer luck determine whether you'll see the peak. Count on it appearing maybe 40–50% of the time, even in decent weather.

So why go? Because Hakone is a great destination regardless of whether Fuji cooperates. You'll find yourself in a mountain valley surrounded by forested hiking trails, beside Lake Ashi (which has its own appeal), and spoiled for choice when it comes to world-class museums, like the Open-Air Museum. There are hot springs everywhere, from luxury ryokans with private onsen to budget-friendly bath houses where locals soak shoulder-to-shoulder. You can ride the scenic Hakone Ropeway over volcanic vents, browse small art galleries, eat kaiseki dinners, or grab ramen at a mountain shack. I'm saying this because if your only goal is to see Mount Fuji, a trip to Hakone probably isn't worth it, because you could wind up disappointed.

How Hakone stacks up against other options

Which brings me to why I think Hakone is better than the alternatives you might be considering:

Hakone vs. Fujikawaguchiko (Mt. Fuji 5-Lake area)

I'm not going to lie: Hakone is a tourist destination and you can really feel the crowds at certain times of the year. But it still feels genuine and less like a theme-park than some other places in the area. Case in point is Fujikawaguchiko: to me at least, Fujikawaguchiko feels very touristy and über-crowded these days and, while the scenery is indisputably lovely, virtually all tourists go there to see Mount Fuji (or maybe to go to the FujiQ themepark). But the views of Fuji are just as elusive in Fujikawaguchiko as they are in Hakone, so if the weather isn't on your side, you're out of luck and there's not a big selection of other things to do, tbh. Which is why I say Hakone is a better choice, since a good look at Fuji-san is a bonus rather than the main reason for visiting at all.

Hakone vs. Nikko

No, doubt about it: Nikko is spectacular in autumn, when the mountain foliage is a picture perfect backdrop of every shade of red, orange and yellow. The shrines are stunning, the waterfalls are impressive, and the hiking is excellent. But I honestly consider Nikko a seasonal destination - as a UNESCO site, it's of course well worth visiting at any time of the year but the effort is less worth it outside autumn. It's also best visited as a day trip or very short overnight stay because there's less to fill multiple days.

Hakone, by contrast, is consistently enjoyable year-round. Summer offers cooler mountain air without Tokyo's oppressive humidity. Winter transforms Hakone into a cozy onsen escape - the cooler temperatures make hot-spring soaking feel even more essential and satisfying. And of course, Hakone has its own autumn-foliage-viewing spots. I'd say: if you're in Tokyo in mid-October to Early November, Nikko makes a lovely day trip but I'd choose Hakone over Nikko at any other time of year for sure.

Something for every budget and time-frame

Part of Hakone's appeal is that it caters to every wallet and almost every itinerary. Accommodation in the Hakone area ranges from the budget back-packer-style hostels to luxury hotels with private onsen, if your itinerary allows an overnight stay. Otherwise, a day trip from Tokyo by public transport is a very worth-while budget option. An organised or private tour from Tokyo or Odawara is the best way to get the most out of your day, though, since local public transport is reliable but a wee bit slow.

Easy access & year-round appeal

What we as a family love most about Hakone is that is feels like a world away from Tokyo but is still very easy and relatively fast to get to. And, although certain times of the year in Hakone are absolute highlights, it's definitely worth a visit at any time of year. Certain attractions are more appealing in certain seasons (e.g. the pirate ships in summer, the onsen in winter) but Hakone has enough to offer to keep any visitor busy at any time.

When to skip Hakone

We love Hakone so much that we keep going back, so this post might sound like the hard sell, but I'll be honest with you: if you're a first-time visitor with only 7 days in Japan, your time is probably better spent doing the must-see highlights in Tokyo, Kyoto, or Osaka. I didn't even include it on the 10-day itinerary for the last tour group of Japan-newbies I led, since it would have felt rushed and the whole point of Hakone is to take the time to enjoy it and appreciate it at leisure. So, my advice as an old-hand would be to save Hakone for a second trip or a longer trip to Japan.

I would also maybe advise skipping Hakone if your sole reason for going there is to see Mount Fuji, unless you can be guaranteed perfect weather conditions, because otherwise it's very much hit or miss: on one occasion we had perfect views before, within 5-10 minutes, a dense mist rolled in and we could barely see each other let alone Fuji.

Speaking of the weather, if you're travelling with kids and the Hakone area is expecting rainy conditions, I might advise you not to make the trip. While there is plenty to keep adults engaged indoors, Hakone's attractions for children are mostly outdoors (unless your kids are art lovers).

One last thing to take into consideration: I would probably reconsider a trip if the Owakudani volcanic fields are closed because of heightened activity - not just for safety reasons or because you will miss out on visiting Owakudani, but also because the Hakone Ropeway and some bus routes/roads are also likely to be closed, substantially affecting how you get around.

So, in summary...

We can highly recommend a visit to Hakone if you can visit without putting too much of a strain on your itinerary. This lovely onsen resort is worth doing right, so definitely go for for it if you have time. It's the easiest, most convenient way to get "off the beaten path" in Japan, especially if you're based in Tokyo.

Have we convinced you that Hakone is worth a visit? Here are some more of our Hakone blog posts to help you plan:

• Our general Hakone travel guide will give you a good overview of what to expect

• We always recommend an overnight stay if possible and our guide to where to stay in Hakone will help you decide which area is best for you

• Even if you're not staying overnight, we tell you how to get around Hakone and whether renting a car is a good idea.

• We've put together a bucket-list of our top 25 favourite things to do and see in Hakone

Collecting your Japan trip inspo on Pinterest? Hover over and click this pin to save it to your board

Want us to plan a Japan trip just for you? Need help putting together your first trip to Japan? Just get in touch.