How to take the bullet train in Japan: the shinkansen how-to guide
- japansophy
- Sep 25
- 11 min read
Updated: Sep 26
Picture this: you settle into a comfy seat, leg-room galore and suddenly you're zipping across the Japanese countryside at over 300 kilometres per hour, the landscape a verdant blur outside your window. There's no turbulence, no traffic, just the soft hum of an incredibly smooth, efficient machine... and the occasional surprise of a whoosh through a tunnel. Welcome to the world of the Shinkansen!
Contents
(3) Nozomi vs Hikari
(5) Shinkansen price
(10) Shinkansen FAQ
So, what is the Shinkansen exactly?
The Shinkansen might be more familiar to you as the Japanese bullet train. More than just a mode of transport, the Shinkansen is an icon of Japan's technological prowess and commitment to convenience. It's the lifeblood of the country, connecting major hubs with mind-boggling speed, impeccable punctuality, and a level of comfort that will make you rethink everything you thought you knew about train travel.
Where can I go with the Shinkansen and how often do they run?
The Shinkansen is almost like the backbone of the Japanese railway system. While all Shinkansen trains are operated under the Japan Railways (JR) Group, the network is divided among six different regional JR companies (as you can see from the different colours of the lines in the map above). So, if you're traveling from Tokyo to Kyoto, you'll be on a different line (the Tokaido Shinkansen) than if you're heading north to Hokkaido (the Tohoku and Hokkaido Shinkansen routes). This is relevant if you're interested in buying one of the regional JR passes, because each regional JR company issues its own and they can't be used in the other regions.
The network is constantly expanding, so new routes and faster services are always on the horizon – a new extension to the Hokkaido Shinkansen to Sapporo is due to open in 2030, for example.
The Tokaido line is arguably the busiest with bullet trains leaving Tokyo in the direction of Nagoya, Kyoto and Osaka every couple of minutes from 6 am until around 10 in the evening. The trains on other routes are less frequent but still very regular.
Choosing your ride: what's the difference between the Nozomi and the Hikari?
So, you're looking at travelling down to Kyoto from Tokyo on the bullet train and, what's this? Why have the trains all got different names? Not all Shinkansen are created equal and the most common distinction is speed, with different train types making different numbers of stops. The fastest of the bunch is the Nozomi/Mizuho, only stopping at major cities. It's the go-to for travelers in a hurry, but it’s important to remember that it is not covered by the Japan Rail Pass. For JR Pass holders, the Hikari and Sakura services are your best friends, making a few more stops but still getting you to your destination with incredible speed. The Kodama/Tsubame service is the local train of the Shinkansen world, stopping at every station along the way. If you purchase in advance, tickets for the Kodama are often cheaper than for its speedier siblings (Puratto Kodama Economy Plan, which includes a reserved seat), so if you've got plenty of time to spare, this is a yen-saving option. But you will have to buy this through the official shinkansen ticket website or from travel agents.
Beyond the train type, you’ll also need to decide on your seat. The vast majority of travellers opt for the Ordinary Car, which offers plush, reclinable seats arranged in a 2x3 layout. It's spacious, clean, and perfectly comfy. If you want to upgrade, the Green Car is the first-class option, offering wider, more comfortable seats in a 2x2 layout, more legroom, and a quieter, more luxurious atmosphere.
We would be remiss not to mention here the famous Hello Kitty Shinkansen on the Sanyo Line between Shin-Osaka and Hakata on Kyushu. The Hello Kitty bullet train is kitted out in a distinctive pink and white livery with a Kitty-themed interior. It makes one return journey from Hakata most days and is a Kodama train, stopping at every stop along the way. You'll find a timetable and more details on the English-language homepage.
How can I buy my Shinkansen tickets?
Navigating the ticket system can seem daunting, but it’s actually a breeze once you know the ropes. There's a few things you need to know and you’ll have a few decisions to make, starting with reserved versus unreserved seats. Every Shinkansen has carriages that have reserved seats and others that are unreserved. An unreserved seat is cheaper and you can just hop on the next train, but you risk having to stand, especially during peak travel times. A reserved seat costs a little more, but guarantees you a spot on a specific train, which is highly recommended for long journeys or if you’re traveling in a group. You may want to sit on a particular side of the Shinkansen, for example to have a chance of seeing Mount Fuji on the way: another good reason to reserve your seat in advance. If you buy a reserved-seat ticket, make sure you don't miss your train because your ticket is valid only for that seat on that train. With an unreserved-seat ticket, you can just take the next Shinkansen that comes along.
There are several ways to buy your tickets and they always have to be bought in advance: you can't buy them on the train and you will need a ticket to even enter the Shinkansen platform at the station. The simplest way is at a JR ticket counter in any major station. The staff, known as Midori no Madoguchi (Green Window), are incredibly helpful. Alternatively, you can use the ticket machines, which have English language options. For most routes, it's fine to buy your tickets on the same day, but for peak seasons like Golden Week, New Year's, or Obon, if you are travelling as part of a group or if you are travelling with luggage, it’s wise to book a few days in advance to secure the seats you need.
You can also book Shinkansen tickets online. Ticket agencies such as Klook even have an easy option to reserve tickets on the Fuji side of the train, seats with oversized luggage space, aisle seats or window seats. Otherwise, you can book online through the official Shinkansen online reservation website, Smart Ex. Here, too, you can book the exact seat you want and can take advantage of quite generous discounts by booking in advance. However, you do have to register for the website in advance and you can only book tickets for the Tokaido, Sanyo and Kyushu Shinkansen routes.
Are you buying a Japan Rail Pass for your Japan trip? You'll be able to just go on through the ticket gate with your pass and board the non-reserved carriages. If you want to reserve your seat, you can do this at the train station, in advance or on the same day at no extra cost. Remember, though, that your pass is not valid for the Nozomi or Mizuho trains and you'll need to buy a separate ticket to ride these super-speeders.
How much does the Shinkansen cost?
Ticket prices vary, in any case according to the route (natch!) but also according to the time of day, the type of train and how far in advance you buy your ticket. Keep in mind that it is very uneconomical to ride the Shinkansen for short distances. A Shinkansen unreserved-seat ticket from Osaka to Kyoto, for example, is around three times more expensive than the same journey using a regular JR train. It won't save you any time either, since you'll have to travel to Shin-Osaka station first to board the Shinkansen. Of course, riding the Shinkansen is an iconic Japan experience in itself, so if you won't have any other opportunity to hop onboard, you might consider the premium price worth it.
Children age 6 to 11 (or 12-year-olds still in primary school) pay half-price on the Shinkansen; younger children and babies don't pay (no more than two kids per paying adult), but in that case they don't get a reserved seat either. If you are reserving a seat and want one for your 5-year-old, too, for example, you will need to pay for a ticket for your child as well.
Boarding the Shinkansen: how does it work?
The first thing we want to point out here is that some cities, for example Yokohama, Osaka and Kobe, have completely separate stations for the Shinkansen ("Shin-Yokohama", "Shin-Osaka", "Shin-Kobe"), some of which are several kilometres away from the "main" station. Make sure you go to the right station to catch your train!
In other cities, the Shinkansen stops in the main station but at its own dedicated platforms with their own ticket gates. Allow yourself enough time to navigate your way to the right ticket gates and then to the right platform. Those without seat reservations should aim to be on the platform at least 20 minutes before the train departs to queue up and maximise your chances of getting a seat. You'll find that passengers will start queuing up early, not only for the next train but for the one after that, so make sure you are in the right queue. There are always conductors on the platform, so ask if in doubt. The platforms are marked for the different cars: locate your car marking and wait there for your train to come in: the Shinkansen can have up to sixteen cars, so make sure you're in the right place to avoid having to walk down the whole length of the train with your luggage while it's moving!
Can I eat on the Shinkansen? Here's what services you can expect on board
And off we whoosh! You'll find the seats very comfortable, similar maybe to premium economy on a long-haul flight. You'll have a fold-down tray in front of you, a pocket in the back of the seat in front and plenty of leg room. And did you know you can reverse your seat to face your friends or family? Every car has clean, modern toilets and you’ll be glad to know that Wi-Fi is available on most Shinkansen lines, so you can stay connected throughout your journey.
Trolley service is restricted these days to the Green Car and is not available on all routes, so we strongly advise stocking up on drinks and snacks before you board. There are mini-kombini stores in every station, and usually on the Shinkansen platforms too, that sell rice balls, sandwiches and the famous ekiben ("station o-bento") lunch boxes. Vending machines are also ubiquitous on the platforms. Green Car passengers can now also take advantage of an o-bento ordering service but the website is still in Japanese only and requires registration.
Shinkansen etiquette, hints and tips
To have the best possible experience, it’s helpful to be aware of a few unwritten rules of Shinkansen etiquette. First and foremost, the Shinkansen is a peaceful place. You'll notice people are incredibly quiet, so keep your voice low, and avoid loud phone conversations. Passengers are expected to switch their mobile phones to "manner mode" (silent mode) while in the train and if you need to take a call, it's best to step out to the area between the cars. When it comes to eating and drinking, it's perfectly acceptable to enjoy a meal, but be mindful of others. Remember to take your rubbish with you and dispose of it properly in the bins provided at the ends of the car or at the station.
There will be an announcement in good time when the train is approaching a station. If you are getting out at the next station, make sure you grab your luggage and make your way to the door well BEFORE the train pulls in. Famously, trains in Japan are generally very punctual and will leave that station on time, whether you have managed to make it out or not!
Lastly, don't block the aisles with your luggage; use the overhead racks or designated storage areas. Note, too, that the luggage areas are for designated seats only and have to be pre-booked. Make sure you do not leave your cases in a space that may have been booked by someone else. Read our article on travelling on the Shinkansen with luggage for more info.
Shinkansen vs flying: which is better?
Ahh, the age-old question: should I take the bullet train or book a flight? The best option will depend very much on where you want to go. If you are travelling from Tokyo to Osaka or Kyoto, for example, we would always take the bullet train: it's around the same price (if not cheaper), you're departing from and arriving in the city centre (or close to it) rather than having to make your way to and from the airport, there are fewer luggage restrictions and you'll save time (taking travel time to /from the airport and check-in, security, luggage collection time, etc. into consideration). However, if you happen to be travelling between Tokyo and Osaka to catch a flight, it might make more sense to fly and arrive in the airport instead of having to make your way (with luggage) through Tokyo to Haneda or Narita, for example.
If you want to travel much further afield, flying is probably the best option. Taking the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Hiroshima, for example, is unlikely to save you much time and is probably going to be more expensive too (although this won't be a consideration of you have the Japan Rail Pass). If you have your sights set on Hokkaido or Kyushu, then flying is definitely your best bet.
Shinkansen FAQ:
Can you eat on the bullet train?
Yes, unlike other trains in Japan, you are allowed to eat and drink on the Shinkansen. But unless you are travelling in the Green car (first class), there is no trolley service so you'll have to bring your own snacks and drinks with you.
How fast is the bullet train in Japan?
The Hayabusa Shinkansen, which runs on the Hokkaido line, can reach top speeds of 320km/h or 200 mph, but the trains on the other lines generally travel at up to 285km/h (177mph).
Are Shinkansen tickets refundable?
Yes, Shinkansen tickets are refundable under certain conditions and depending where and how you booked your ticket. Klook offers refunds up to one hour before departure but charges 20% of the ticket price as a cancellation fee. Similar applies to tickets booked through Smart Ex (the official Shinkansen online ticket website): a cancellation fee will be charged depending on how far in advance you cancel and certain discount tickets may not be refundable at all. You will not be able to get a refund on your ticket if you cancel within an hour of travel or if you miss your train.
Which Shinkansen goes from Tokyo to Kyoto?
You'll want the Tokaido Shinkansen for this route. Kyoto isn't the last stop: the train will continue on to Shin-Osaka or further to Hakata in some cases. A few Kodama trains on this route only go as far as Nagoya, so you would have to change trains here to travel further on to Kyoto.
Can I take the Shinkansen from Osaka to Kyoto?
Well, you can, yes, but we wouldn't advise it. Taking the Shinkansen from Osaka to Kyoto is around three times more expensive than the regular train between the two cities. Even if you have a Japan Rail Pass, in which case the price is irrelevant, taking the Shinkansen to Kyoto from Osaka will cost you time, since Shin-Osaka station is well outside the city centre and you'll have to take the ordinary train to get you there first.
Is it better to take the Shinkansen or to fly?
It depends on where you want to go. The Shinkansen certainly wins on convenience: you can be more spontaneous with your travel plans and you won't have to spend hours getting to and sitting around in an airport. But the golden cut-off point is around 4 hours: if your Shinkansen journey is going to take more than 4 hours, you're probably going to save time and money by flying. Of course, taking the Shinkansen is the much more environmentally friendly option.
Are Shinkansen tickets return tickets?
No, each ticket you buy for the bullet train is for a one-way trip. Of course, you can already book your return journey at the same time but this will be a separate ticket and there are no discounts for a round trip.
So there you have it! The Shinkansen is much more than a fast train; it's a seamless part of the Japanese travel experience. It’s an adventure in itself, getting you where you need to go with unmatched style and efficiency. Now that you have a grasp of the basics, you're ready to pick your destination.
Ready to put this knowledge to the test? Check out our other guides on specific routes, including The Ultimate Guide to Taking the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Kyoto!
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