Omoide Yokocho: Step Back in Time in Shinjuku's "Memory Lane"
- japansophy
- Aug 15
- 5 min read
Get ready for a trip down memory lane – literally! Omoide Yokocho (思い出横丁), often charmingly called "Memory Lane" (or sometimes by its older, less polite nickname, "Piss Alley"), is a legendary, narrow alleyway tucked beside Shinjuku Station. This isn't your sleek, futuristic Tokyo; it's a wonderfully atmospheric labyrinth of tiny, smoke-filled izakayas and yakitori stalls that transport you straight back to post-war Showa-era Japan. It’s loud, it’s lively, it’s delightfully intimate, and it’s an absolute must-visit for anyone craving an authentic, gritty, and incredibly tasty Tokyo experience. Prepare to squeeze in, feast, and soak up some serious nostalgia!
Getting there: Where is Omoide Yokocho?
Despite its hidden-gem feel, Omoide Yokocho is easy to reach as it's right by one of Tokyo's busiest stations.
Nearest station: It's just a stone's throw from Shinjuku Station (新宿駅), particularly accessible from the West Exit. Shinjuku Station is a massive hub serving multiple JR lines (Yamanote Line, Chuo Line, Saikyo Line, Shonan-Shinjuku Line) and numerous Tokyo Metro and private subway lines. Just follow the signs for the West Exit, and you'll spot its distinctive entrance under the train tracks.
By Taxi: A taxi can drop you off at the West Exit of Shinjuku Station, and from there, it’s a very short walk to the alleyway.
Accessibility: Due to its very narrow pathways, crowded nature (especially at night), and tiny, often cramped seating within stalls, Omoide Yokocho is not very wheelchair or stroller friendly. It's best to visit without large bags or mobility aids.
Opening hours & best time to visit
Omoide Yokocho truly comes alive when the sun goes down, but some spots do offer lunch.
Opening hours: While some stalls might open for lunch (around 11:30 AM or noon), the vast majority of establishments in Omoide Yokocho really get going from late afternoon (around 5:00 PM) and stay open until late at night, often past midnight (but don't forget that last train!).
Best time to visit:
Evening (as it gets dark): This is prime time! As the lanterns flicker on and the alley fills with the aroma of grilling skewers, the atmosphere is simply electric. It’s incredibly photogenic and lively.
Weekday evenings: Visiting on a weekday evening (e.g., Monday-Thursday) is often ideal. It's still bustling with a great local vibe, but generally less intensely packed than on weekends.
Time to avoid: Saturday evenings can be incredibly (and sometimes uncomfortably) packed, making it hard to find a seat or even move through the alley freely. If you dislike extreme crowds, try a different night.
Reservations & admission
Your entry into this nostalgic world is delightfully informal!
Reservations: No reservations are needed to enter Omoide Yokocho itself. It's a public alleyway. For the individual stalls, most operate on a first-come, first-served basis. Given their tiny size (often seating only 5-10 people), you usually just walk up and see if there's a space.
Admission price: Entry to Omoide Yokocho is free! You only pay for the delicious food and drinks you consume at the individual establishments.
Payment method: Most of the small, traditional stalls in Omoide Yokocho operate on a cash-only basis. It's absolutely essential to have plenty of Japanese Yen notes on hand before you go. Credit cards and IC cards (Suica/Pasmo) are generally not accepted in these tiny, old-school spots.
What to see & do in Omoide Yokocho
Omoide Yokocho is an experience that goes beyond just eating; it's about soaking in a unique atmosphere.
Dive into the atmosphere: This is the main draw! The alley feels like a time capsule. The narrow passages, the dangling lanterns, the smoke rising from grills, and the lively chatter create an incredibly authentic and nostalgic Showa-era vibe. Just walking through is a fascinating cultural immersion.
Feast on yakitori (grilled skewers): Yakitori is the undisputed star here! Each tiny stall specialises in various grilled skewers, often made with different cuts of chicken (thigh, skin, liver, heart) and sometimes vegetables. The skewers are cooked over charcoal, giving them a smoky, delicious flavour. Don't be afraid to try a variety!
Explore other izakaya delights: Beyond yakitori, you'll find places offering other traditional izakaya fare: motsuyaki (grilled offal, if you're adventurous!), oden (a comforting hot pot stew in cooler months), small noodle dishes, and simple vegetable sides.
Squeeze into tiny spaces: Part of the charm is the intimacy. You'll likely be sitting elbow-to-elbow with locals and fellow travellers at a counter, watching the chefs grill right in front of you. This often leads to spontaneous conversations and shared experiences.
Enjoy Japanese drinks: Wash it all down with a cold draft beer (nama bīru), traditional sake, or shochu. Many places have a small selection of local spirits.
Japansophy’s top tips!
Go in a small group: These places are tiny! Ideal for solo travellers, couples, or a small group of 3-4 people. Larger groups will struggle to find space together.
Bring cash! As mentioned, most places are cash-only. Hit an ATM before you go.
Be adventurous (with a smile!): Don't be afraid to point at what looks good, or try something new. The atmosphere is generally very friendly.
Embrace the smoke: Many of these traditional izakayas are smoker-friendly. If you are sensitive to smoke, be aware that the air inside can be quite smoky and pervasive.
Order a drink first: It’s polite practice to order a drink (even if it's just a soft drink) when you sit down at an izakaya counter. Many izakayas will have a cover charge of around ¥500 and will expect you to order both a drink and something to eat. Some also have a time limit.
Don't over-order: The skewers come quickly. Start with a few, see how you feel, and then order more.
Watch the bill: In some smaller places, there might not be a written menu, or the pricing might be opaque. It's usually fine, but keep a rough mental tally if you're concerned about your budget.
Leave your camera in the hotel: Although Omoide Yokocho is a pretty Instagrammable location, there is a general ban on street photography in place. You will need an advance permit for any photography or filming and can be charged on the spot (¥30,000) for violating the ban.
Facilities
Omoide Yokocho's appeal lies in its traditional, no-frills atmosphere, which means amenities are basic.
Eating & drinking: That's the whole point! Every stall offers food and drinks. You can't really bring your own food or drinks into the individual establishments.
Toilets: Restrooms are very limited and often basic (it's not called "Piss Alley" for no reason!). Some stalls might have their own tiny toilet, or there might be shared facilities in the alleyway. Don't expect modern, sparkling facilities like in department stores. It’s part of the authentic, rustic experience!
Baby-changing facilities: Dedicated baby-changing facilities are generally not available within Omoide Yokocho's small stalls. You would need to use facilities in nearby Shinjuku Station or large department stores.
Other attractions nearby
Omoide Yokocho is perfectly situated for exploring the broader Shinjuku area.
Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden: Just a short walk away, this beautiful and expansive garden offers a peaceful escape with various traditional Japanese, French, and English garden styles.
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building: Head here for a free panoramic view of Tokyo from its twin observation decks. It's particularly stunning at sunset.
Golden Gai: Another famous (and distinct!) alleyway drinking area in Shinjuku, known for its even smaller, highly themed bars, each with its own unique personality. It's often a bit more "local" than Omoide Yokocho.
Godzilla head: Perched atop a hotel in Kabukicho, this statue breathes smoke (not flames, for reasons of fire safety of course!) at several times of the day for that real kaiju feel.
Ready to dive into Tokyo's authentic nightlife and culinary traditions? Our 3-Day Tokyo Itinerary includes a memorable visit to Omoide Yokocho, guiding you through Shinjuku's best!
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