Kobe Suma-dera temple: real local vibes
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I'd been to Sumadera a few times back in the 90s when I was living not too far away. It was basically the same train stop as for Suma beach, so I had dropped by occasionally after a day at the seaside. I have a few photos from that time but I am ashamed (and kinda worried) to say that I couldn't remember that much about it. Knowing that I would have a free day in Kobe on our most recent trip, I decided to head out early to revisit. And my mind was blown. I am well aware that "hidden gem" is horribly overdone these days, but I can't recommend a little side quest to this temple enough.
How to get to Sumadera in Kobe
So, Suma is on the outskirts of Kobe city and you'll be taking a train to one of the closest stations.
Sumadera from Kobe
From the centre of Kobe, take the Hanshin Line from Kobe-Sannomiya Station in the direction of Sumaurakoen and get out at Sumadera Station. It takes around 25 minutes and costs about 350 yen.
Sumadera from Osaka
I took the Direct Limited Express Sanyo Himeji (Hanshin Line) from Hanshin Umeda Station to Sanyo Suma Station. Sanyo Suma Station is a little bit further away from the temple than Sumadera Station, but the express train doesn't stop at Sumadera and it's easier and faster to walk a few 100 metres further than change trains. It took just over an hour and cost around 700 yen one-way.
Sumadera from Kyoto
The fastest way is to take the Special Rapid JR bound for Himeji to Sannomiya and change there to the JR local line bound for Nishi-Akashi to Suma Station.
From JR Suma Station and the Sanyo Suma Station, it's a 10-15 walk to the temple (slightly uphill). From Sumadera Station, the walk is only around 7 mins. In any case, you can walk up through the Sumadera-mae Shotengai shopping street, which has a lot of cute little shops, cafés and restaurants, some of which haven't changed in the last three or four decades, I would imagine. The last stretch up to the temple had a lot of temporary stalls selling snacks, bric-a-brac and homemade goods, such as repurposed kimono.
Why you should visit Suma-dera temple in Kobe
Suma-dera is one of Kobe's oldest temples - it's around 1000 years old. In a country full of ultra-old temples, this might not be a big selling point, though. I get it. It's also really beautiful, set against the wooded and bambooed hills, with staircases, a little humped, crimson bridge at the entrance, ponds full of koi and turtles and a stunning pagoda. But the main reason for visiting Suma-dera is the peace, the authenticity and the local vibe. This is the Japan I knew 30 years ago - that has slowly vanished over the last years and is almost impossible to find these days unless you venture far from the big cities. I was there on a Wednesday morning and was, as far as I could tell, the only non-Japanese tourist (there were a few young Japanese couples obviously sightseeing too). The only other people there were locals visiting the cemetery or taking part in Buddhist ceremonies. I had a nice chat with a grandma on a bench about how unseasonally warm it was, konnichiwa-ed an old man as we passed on the steep steps of the pilgrimage trail at the back of the temple. No crowds, no bustle. And it's free!
Top things to see at Suma-dera, Kobe
Suma-dera is associated with the 12th century Genpei War and has a lot of historical artifacts. One of the first things you'll see as you walk into the temple grounds are statues of two warriors on horseback. The grounds are quite spread out and you should take the time to wander around. I had many of the little corners, gardens and paths to myself. There are cemeteries at both ends of the temple, with a huge prayer wheel and a massive bronze bell in front of the eastern one - both of which were in full use by the local worshippers while I was there. Also at the eastern end is the steep pilgrimage path to various prayer stations on the hillside. It's a bit of a climb but you walk up through the trees and bamboo groves, so can get in some forest bathing as you go. The highlight is the gorgeous 3-storey pagoda that looks like it was freshly painted just a few weeks ago.
While you're in Suma...
Don't leave Suma without visiting Suma beach - one of the nicest and most accessible in the area. You could also check out Suma Seaworld, if you have time.
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