Katsuoji temple, Osaka: daruma central

When you think of Japanese temples, your mind probably whisks you off to Kyoto, but Osaka also has its gems and Katsuoji might well be the jewel in the crown. It's a bit of a hassle to get to but set aside 3-4 hours out of your Kansai itinerary and you'll be very glad you made the effort.

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Katsuoji: the temple of “winning luck” and ten thousand daruma

Located high in the Minoh mountains, this 1,300-year-old temple is known as the "Temple of Winner’s Luck" (Zensho) - “katsu” means “win” in Japanese (which is why KitKats, pronounced “kitto katsu” in Japan, are so popular there… but that’s another story). With its incredibly scenic setting, beautiful architecture and koi-filled ponds, Katsuoji can hold its own against Kyoto’s popular temples. But what entices visitors to go out of their way to come here and makes social media surfers go weak at the knees are the thousands of daruma dolls, from huge to teeny-tiny, that decorate the gardens, paths, walls and staircases of this temple.

Click on the pic for our TikTok guide to visiting Katsuoji and Minoh falls as a day trip

A sea of daruma

At Katsuoji, the daruma are everywhere. Tucked into stone lanterns, lined up on mossy walls, and even huddled in the crevices of ancient trees.

In Japanese culture, these Weeble-like dolls represent perseverance (bottom-heavy so they get up again if knocked down). At Katsuoji, people buy them to wish for success in business, exams, or personal goals. Once their wish comes true, they return the doll to the temple, creating the incredible visual throngs of these pudgy, crimson figures with their big eyes.

But they come in other colours too, depending on what sort of success you are wishing for. Red is for general good luck, purple is for longevity, yellow for wealth, pink for luck in love, black for luck in business, green for good health, white for exam success and blue for sporting success. The daruma you buy at Katsuoji are called “kachi daruma” (winning daruma) and have the Japanese character for “win” on their tummies.

Daruma for the win

So what you do is this: buy your daruma and write your goal for the year on the back. Light some incense and pray while focusing on your goal and then bathe your daruma in the smoke from the incense. Colour in its right eye as you concentrate on your wish. Take your daruma home and put it somewhere you will see it every day (to remind you of your goal and encourage you to persevere). When you achieve your goal, you colour in the other eye and take it back to the temple, where it will eventually be burned in a cleansing ritual. You’re supposed to do this whether or not your goal has been achieved. If your goal is still a work in progress, you should buy a new daruma and start again. Typically, you’ll buy your daruma at the start of the year, but it’s never too late to set yourself a goal, right?

What else is there to see and do at Katsuoji?

Even without the daruma, Katsuoji is a stunning temple in extensive grounds that you can explore for hours. Walk through the mist across the “purification bridge”, feed the koi in Benten pond, admire the architecture of the pagoda and sanmon gate, listen to the sutras being chanted in the main hall, go on a symbolic pilgrimage of the 88 temples of the sacred Shikoku route (by standing on sand collected from each of those 88 temples), walk through the vast cemetery and take in vistas down over the mountain side.

Katsuoji stamp rally

Katsuoji also has a stamp rally. Collect a postcard and visit each of the 6 stamping points to build a cute, multi-colour picture of our daruma friends. The activity is free and encourages you to explore more of the temple grounds. You can expect queues at the stamping points at busier times of the day.

Best times to visit

Best time to visit Katsuoji

Katsuoji is a popular momiji (autumn leaf) spot and is especially spectacular in late November/early December, with light-up events in the evening. It can be very crowded at this time of year, though. In early April, the cherry blossoms provide a beautiful backdrop for the daruma and in late April the path up to the pagoda explodes in a riot of pinks and reds when the rhododendrons bloom. Katsuoji is also a lovely spot to enjoy hydrangeas (mid-June to early July).

Social media has turned Katsuoji into a must-see and the afternoons in particular can be very crowded. Since getting to the temple involves a journey of around an hour from Osaka, be that early bird and try to get there when it opens while the other tourists are still on the bus!

We mentioned that the darumas are ritually burned at the end of the year: this ceremony is on 28 December every year. For this reason, you can expect there to be fewer darumas on display directly before this date and for a while after. There will still be plenty around, though.

Opening hours and admission

Sunday- Friday & public holidays: 8am - 5pm (last admission 4:30pm)

Saturdays: 8am - 6pm (last admission 5:30pm)

Adults: 500 yen

Children age 6-16: 400 yen

Children age 3-5: 100 yen

Children age 2 and under: free

Expect long queues at the ticket booths at peak times. Click below to order your tickets from klook in advance and beat the crowds.

Click here to buy your tickets in advance

How to get to Katsuoji temple / accessibility

Part of Katsuoji’s charm is its mountainside setting but getting there is a little complicated and, since its popularity has exploded in recent months thanks to social media, the buses can get very full indeed and you can expect to have to stand. If you prefer to visit this temple in comfort without having to worry about rail and bus stops, consider taking a tour (especially from Kyoto, since the connections aren't very handy). Klook has a range of tours leaving daily from Osaka and Kyoto that combine Katsuoji and other highlights in the area. Click on the link below to check availability and prices:

Click here for day tours to Katsuoji from Osaka and Kyoto

From Osaka:

Take the Midosuji subway line (for example, from Tennoji, Namba, Shinsaibashi, Yodoyobashi, Osaka or Shin-Osaka stations) to Minoh Kayano station. From there, take the bus from bus stop no. 8 to Katsuoji (25 mins, 800 yen). Buses run every 20-30 minutes or so from around 9am. Alternatively, a taxi from Minoh-Kayano station to the temple will cost around 3800 yen. 

From Kyoto: 

Unfortunately, there are no direct trains to Minoh Kayano station from Kyoto. You will either take the JR Kyoto line train from JR Kyoto to Shin-Osaka and change to the Midosuji subway line there or take the JR Kyoto line to Ibaraki station and change there to the Ishibashi line to Nishijuku station. Minoh-Kayano station is about 6 minutes’ walk from Nishijuku station. From Minoh-Kayano station take the bus or a taxi to the temple (see “From Osaka” above)

Accessibility / things to remember

Be aware that much of Katsuoji can only be accessed via stairs or steep inclines. There are flatter parts near the entrance, so wheelchair users or those with mobility issues won’t miss out completely but exploring the grounds will be difficult. 

The road up to the temple is very winding and buses are regularly packed. You might have to stand for the whole journey and travel sickness medication is advised for those who suffer from motion sickness in cars or buses!

There is very little shade available at Katsuoji, so remember sunscreen and avoid the hotter times of the day. We would also advise applying anti-mosquito spray in the summer months.

Katsuoji temple Osaka: FAQ

Is there anywhere to eat and drink at Katsuoji temple?

There's a small café in the gift shop area but they sell only small snacks and drinks. There's a rest area, also down near the entrance, where you could stop and eat sandwiches or onigiri that you brought with you. Eating anywhere else in the temple grounds is forbidden.

How much do the darumas cost at Katsuoji?

The largest darumas can cost 50000 yen and more! But you can buy smaller versions for around 1000 yen and the small fortune-telling versions cost 500 yen (and are much easier to pack!)

How to get to Katsuoji from Minoh falls?

Although Katsuoji and Minoh falls are not that far away from each other, your options are limited. You can walk in around an hour (3.5km) (warning: the road does not have a pavement all the way) but the best option is to take a taxi (less than 10 mins; around 1500 yen).

What's the best way to visit Katsuoji temple?

The temple is a little out of the way but worth the effort. You can visit as a comfortable half-day trip from central Osaka but if taking crowded trains and buses isn't your thing, you should consider taking an organised tour, either just to Katsuoji or in combination with some of the other highlights in the Osaka/Kyoto area. Klook and GetYourGuide have a lot of tours to choose from. Click here and here to find out more.